Sinterklaas arrives in the Netherlands every November. He sails all the way from Spain in a steamboat with loads of gifts and candy. His helpers deliver the gifts on the night of December 4th. Sinterklaas is celebrated on December 5th.
Every November, it’s that time of the year again. “What?” will all non-Dutch people say. “Are you kidding? Its only November, there’s a full month to go!” And “I know” will all Dutch parents of younger kids utter breathlessly, since they have been busy preparing since June. Yes, in the Netherlands, November is that time of the year again. All over Europe, families get excited – one way or another – about Christmas.
In the Netherlands, Christmas exists, and it’s a good reason to meet the family, decorate the house and eat yourself silly. Sometimes there are presents involved. But especially if you are a Dutch child, the real excitement starts earlier, for Sinterklaas. During his yearly visit to the Netherlands, Sinterklaas might also show up at kindergartens and schools all over the country.
What makes Sinterklaas so special?
Sinterklaas arrives from Spain in mid-November, with the exact date announced annually. He is traditionally said to travel by steamboat, a custom still reflected in modern parades and storytelling. He’s got a white horse currently called Ozosnel (though older generations might still refer to it as Amerigo, its former name until 2019). Ask any Dutch person, and they’ll surely know the tale of his trusted steed.
He’s also got helpers, traditionally known as Black Pete, but more recently referred to simply as ‘Piet’ or ‘Roetveegpiet’ (Soot Piet). Historically portrayed with blackface, this depiction has shifted in recent years due to debates around cultural sensitivity. Nowadays, Piet is typically seen with smudges of soot, symbolising chimney dust. These helpers make sure children who have been good get presents, while naughty ones, according to legend, risk being scooped up in a sack and taken to Spain. (I guess that’s why it only works for smaller kids, bigger kids would probably voluntarily join a free ride to Lloret de mar).
Once Sint has arrived in the country, kids should put their shoe near a fireplace or window and place a carrot or other edibles inside. This is meant as a snack for his horse. Because if you do, chances are Sinterklaas will come to find you and leave a little something in your shoe. This works from his time of arrival up to the time he leaves—which is on 6 December. Tradition states that certain sweets are eaten (peppernuts, spicenuts, almond bars etc).
Leave a shoe out with snacks and you might find a gift the next morning
On 5 December, people celebrate Sinterklaas. It's also called 'pakjesavond' (gifting evening). Traditionally, Sinterklaas' helpers would have already delivered presents the night before by sliding down chimneys of every home. Often, people stop working earlier on 5 December, but Sinterklaas does have a habit of only coming after dark, which is after around 16.00 in November.
Older children are also allowed to join in the fun, even if they stopped ‘believing’. After the age of about seven, the whole tradition turns with an unexpected twist. Once you start giving your own presents, you are first to compose a rhyme or poem about the person you hand it to, and secondly, you are to disguise your presents to the point of unrecognisable. People can be busy with those present disguises from begin November, to make sure the teapot hides well in a guitar case.
Is he really coming?
Every year the big question is: Will he arrive? Will he be on time? Will he bring all the presents? Will he have the book with the wishes and all the rest? And will I get something? Just like it should be. And to make sure every child in the country asks these questions, Sinterklaas journals and various movies raise these questions every year again.
Sinterklaas arrives in Dordrecht in 2011 📷 Tony Taylorstock
When exactly?
The arrival of Sinterklaas will be officially announced on Dutch television and there will also be an official arrival place which varies from year to year. The arrival is broadcasted on TV, so if something prevents you from going to see him live, you can always join from the comfort of your own living room. However, he also arrives in every bigger place, certainly in the cities and in some villages too.
Sint appears in style with the boat in Rotterdam on Saturday 16th this year, so if you want to join the celebrations and have a nose around on how the festivities work just see this website for more details. He will leave on 6 December, which is often also shown on Dutch TV to make a point. Sinterklaas departure then makes way for all things Christmas.
The image of Black Pete (Zwarte Piet) is changing - Dordrecht (2018) 📷 Tony Taylorstock
Quick historical excursion:
Sinterklaas is based on Saint Nicholas of Myra, a Christian bishop who lived during the time of the Roman Empire (traditionally 270–343 AD). Known for his generosity and secret gift-giving, Nicholas became one of the most popular saints in Christendom. Historical records suggest he was born in the ancient city of Patara (modern-day Turkey) and later served as the Bishop of Myra. His reputation for helping the poor and performing miracles, such as saving sailors and providing dowries for impoverished girls, solidified his sainthood.
While the modern depiction of Sinterklaas often portrays him as a white man, Saint Nicholas would have likely reflected the Mediterranean features of his region. Over time, his story has been adapted and reimagined, eventually influencing the creation of Santa Claus in the United States.
The big dividing discussion surrounding Black Pete
For decades, there has always been some kind of opposition to Black Pete. However, in recent years, the Black Pete (Zwarte Piet) discussion has really divided the country. It’s not about Sinterklaas himself. It’s his helpers who are the cause of the trouble. As a mythological older man, Sinterklaas can’t be expected to go down every chimney and do all the work himself. Just as Father Christmas and similar figures, he needs helpers. This is widely accepted. The only problem in the Netherlands is the way these helpers are portrayed.
Traditional Depiction of Black Pete
Traditionally, Black Pete has been represented by white performers in blackface, complete with colonial-era clothing, afro wigs, red lipstick, and large earrings. This depiction has faced increasing scrutiny both locally and internationally as awareness of racial stereotypes and their implications grows. Critics argue that this representation perpetuates harmful stereotypes rooted in colonialism and racism.
Black Pete - as originally created, intended and depicted
Two black Petes — Leidschendam, Holland - November 13, 2010: Two Black Petes laughing in the camera during the arrival of Sinterklaas in Holland. November 13, 2010 Leidschendam, Holland — Photo by jehoede
Shifting Perspectives and Modernization Efforts
In recent years, there has been a strong push to modernize this tradition. Activists and community members have advocated for changes to how Black Pete is portrayed. For instance, as of 2020, Rotterdam officially replaced traditional Black Petes with 'Sooty Petes,' who appear less like caricatures and more like individuals who have merely come down chimneys. This shift reflects a broader societal movement aimed at addressing the character's racial implications while attempting to retain cultural festivities.
Public opinion on Black Pete has also evolved. While a significant portion of the population once supported the traditional portrayal—89% in 2013—this number has declined sharply. Recent polls indicate that only 47% of Dutch people wish to maintain the traditional appearance of Black Pete. The debate reveals a generational and geographical divide within Dutch society, with urban areas like Amsterdam showing stronger support for change compared to rural regions.
Cultural Implications and Ongoing Debate
The discussion surrounding Black Pete is emblematic of larger societal issues regarding race and representation in the Netherlands. Supporters of the traditional depiction often argue that it is a harmless part of Dutch culture and childhood nostalgia. They claim that Black Pete's black face is merely a result of chimney soot rather than a racial stereotype. However, opponents contend that this narrative ignores the historical context of slavery and racism inherent in the character's portrayal.
Prominent activists like Jerry Afriyie have highlighted the negative impact that Black Pete has on children from minority backgrounds, noting experiences of bullying and racial taunts linked to the character. The ongoing debate reflects deeper tensions within Dutch society regarding race relations and cultural identity.
While efforts to modernize the portrayal of Black Pete are gaining traction, the debate continues to elicit strong emotions on both sides. The future of this tradition remains uncertain as society grapples with its historical implications and seeks a balance between cultural heritage and inclusivity.