Delfshaven - the old, historic part of Rotterdam

Delfshaven - the old, historic part of Rotterdam

Don’t be fooled by Rotterdam’s modern skyline. West of the city centre lies a very different Rotterdam: old harbour water, narrow houses, warehouses, bridges, a historic church and a windmill. Historisch Delfshaven offers one of the clearest glimpses of the city that existed before the devastating bombardment of 14 May 1940.

 

Rotterdam is proud of rebuilding itself. Glass towers, daring architecture and a skyline on the Nieuwe Maas are central to the city’s identity. But if you want to see a part of Rotterdam where the scale changes completely, head west to Historisch Delfshaven.

Its story begins in 1389, when Delft was given permission to create its own shipping connection to the Maas. A harbour settlement grew where that waterway reached the river. Over the centuries, herring fishing, shipbuilding and jenever production shaped its economy.

Today, the historic core around the Aelbrechtskolk, Voorhaven and Achterhaven is a nationally protected townscape.

 

Delfshaven and the Rotterdam bombardment

The German bombardment of Rotterdam on 14 May 1940 destroyed a large part of the city centre, killed more than 800 people and left around 80,000 homeless.

Historisch Delfshaven escaped the destruction that devastated the centre. That survival is one reason the area feels so different from central Rotterdam today.

After the bombardment, rubble from destroyed buildings was cleared on an enormous scale and some waterways, including parts of the Blaak, Kolk and Schie, were filled in. Reconstruction transformed the centre according to a radically different urban plan.

Delfshaven followed another path. Its old harbour system, quays, streets, alleys and historic buildings remained legible.

If you want a simple starting point, begin at the Aelbrechtskolk and continue towards the Voorhaven. Narrow houses and former warehouses rise directly from the quays. Bridges cross the water, boats fill the harbour and De Distilleerketel windmill appears at the southern end.

From Rotterdam Centraal, the tram ride to the Delfshaven stop takes roughly ten minutes. Metro services also serve the area, and cycling from the centre is straightforward. Check current public transport information before travelling.

 

Entrance view of Albrechtskolk 📷 Anna SoetensEntrance view of Albrechtskolk 📷 Anna Soetens

 

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How Delfshaven began

Delfshaven was created in 1389 as the seaport of Delft. Delft wanted its own connection with the Maas, avoiding dependence on neighbouring Rotterdam and Schiedam.

A settlement developed around what are now the Aelbrechtskolk and Voorhaven. The Achterhaven followed in 1451.

Delfshaven separated from Delft in 1795, was briefly reunited with it from 1803 and became an independent municipality again in 1811. Rotterdam annexed Delfshaven in 1886.

Its maritime history goes far beyond fishing boats. Shipyards developed around the Buizenwaal, where the Delft chamber of the Dutch East India Company had ships built. The first VOC ship constructed there, Delft, was launched in 1606. Shipbuilding continued there until the VOC disappeared at the end of the 18th century.

Herring fishing and jenever production were equally important. Malt mills supplied Delfshaven’s distilleries, a history still recalled by De Distilleerketel.

 

A protected historic townscape

Historisch Delfshaven is not a perfectly preserved 17th-century film set. That is part of its appeal.

Buildings in the protected core range from the 17th to the 20th century. Old stepped and top gables stand beside later façades, warehouses, homes, former industrial premises and civic buildings.

The water matters just as much as the architecture. The Aelbrechtskolk, Voorhaven and Achterhaven, their quays, bridges, streets and narrow alleys form one connected historical landscape.

You can walk through the core fairly quickly, but there is little reason to rush. Give yourself a couple of hours if you want to visit a museum, stop for a drink or explore the side streets.

 

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What to see in Historisch Delfshaven

Walking through its quaint streets, you'll find numerous beautiful houses, many of which now hold little art shops. You can walk it slowly in an hour, or stretch it into an afternoon by ducking into museums, cafés and side streets that still have the scale and texture of an older Netherlands.

Old drawing bridge leading up to Pilgrims church 📷 Anna SoetensOld drawing bridge leading up to Pilgrims church 📷 Anna Soetens


 

Oude of Pelgrimvaderskerk (Pilgrim Fathers Church)

The Oude of Pelgrimvaderskerk is one of Delfshaven’s most important landmarks.

Delft received permission to build a church here in 1416, and the first Sint Anthonyskapel was completed in 1417. The building developed through repeated alterations into the church you see today.

The Reformation changed its religious role. The iconoclasm reached the chapel in 1572, and the first minister of the new Reformed congregation was appointed in 1574. The church remains home to the Hervormde Gemeente Delfshaven.

Its international fame comes from the English Separatists later known as the Pilgrim Fathers. After more than eleven years in Leiden, members of the community embarked from Delfshaven aboard the Speedwell in 1620. They travelled first to England. Problems with the leaking Speedwell ultimately led to the transatlantic voyage continuing aboard the Mayflower.

Inside the church, a stained-glass window depicting the Speedwell recalls that history. Other features include its historic pulpit, organ and stained glass representing the six days of Creation.

The church is still a working place of worship and an events venue rather than a conventional daily museum. Public open days are announced separately, so check the current programme before visiting.



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De Distilleerketel

At the edge of the harbour stands Korenmolen De Distilleerketel, a windmill that looks ancient enough to have ground flour for the Dutch Golden Age. The catch is that the current mill is not an untouched 18th-century survivor. It is a reconstruction completed in 1986 to 1987, built to restore a lost landmark to the skyline.




 

De Pelgrim Brewery

A few steps away is Stadsbrouwerij De Pelgrim, a long-running brewery and tasting spot that leans into Delfshaven’s atmosphere rather than fighting it. It was founded in 1995 and remains one of the neighbourhood’s best places to settle in for an unhurried beer, especially when the weather pushes people onto terraces by the water.



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Dutch Pinball Museum, the most joyful museum in the harbour

If you want something that feels less like heritage and more like play, go to the Dutch Pinball Museum. It moved to Delfshaven in 2020 and sits right on the water at Voorhaven 12. The pitch is simple: a museum where the machines are not just displayed, they are meant to be played, with a large collection spanning decades.

It is also a neat example of what Delfshaven does best: old warehouse setting, contemporary obsession inside.

 

 


 

Antique Shops, Galleries, and Gin Bars

Delfshaven is home to a variety of antique shops, art galleries, and gin bars that you can explore.



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A secret park: De Schat van Schoonderloo

De Schat van Schoonderloo (The Treasure of Schoonderloo) is a charming neighborhood park located in the middle of Schoonderloostraat in Rotterdam. It is open daily until sunset and is managed by local volunteers. Over the years, a group of enthusiastic residents has worked on the realization of De Schat van Schoonderloo, turning it into a gem of a neighborhood park.



The park consists of four gardens: 'by the water', 'near the forest', 'along the street', and 'around the roses'. It was built on the site of the former Petrus Church, which was a sailors' church built in 1928 for the children of the sailors' internment camp in Havenstraat. However, the church was demolished in 1975 and 1976, leaving a large gaping hole known as the “Gap of Schoonderloo”.

In 1997, the municipality wanted to fill the gap with houses, but some residents fought to retain the green designation for the area. In 1999, the Delfshaven District chose to side with the residents and decided to maintain the green designation instead of building houses.

 


 

Where to eat and drink

Delfshaven’s strength is not a single headline restaurant, it is the density of small places that make you slow down. A reliable dinner option is ’t Ouwe Bruggetje, a long-standing restaurant on the harbour. Check opening days and times before you go, as schedules can be tight.

 
 




Remember to check the opening hours of these attractions before visiting, as some of them have specific visiting times or days.


 

 
 

Side street leading behind the church view 📷 Anna SoetensSide street leading behind the church view 📷 Anna Soetens

 

Take your time

It is worth a visit just for the impression it gives you, but there are certainly a few places that will help lengthen your stay if you’re in it for a half-day trip. Get a tour at the windmill, sample the brews from the brewery in their adjunct bar, have a look at the Pelgrimsvaderskerk (Pilgrims Fathers Church) and its cute carillon tower. And finish by a fancy meal paired with wine at ‘t.Ouwe Bruggetje . But most of all, get some inspiration. And take some time to explore the nearby streets, some of which are also (partly) ancient.

 

More historic places

If you are looking for more official and historic houses that have survived the war or have been rebuilt, visit the Sint-Laurenskerk in the city centre, the Schielandshuis Museum, the Wereld Museum Rotterdam or Rotterdam’s City Hall (also with an impressive carillon tower).

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