Don't be fooled by the fancy modern architecture and by catchy nicknames like “Manhattan on the Meuse.” Rotterdam has an old and stunningly beautiful part of town. Its roots trace back to the Dutch Golden Age when it flourished as a vital centre for shipbuilding and trade, particularly in herring fishing and distillation industries.
Rotterdam is proud of its skyline, its sharp angles, its habit of rebuilding itself in public. But if you want to understand what the city was before the firestorm of the Second World War, you need to take a detour west, to Delfshaven.
Delfshaven: The old part of town
When in Rotterdam, you never ask about the old part of town. Especially not if you are German (like the author this article :) ). Rotterdam’s city centre was nearly levelled in May 1940, killing almost 900 people and making 85,000 homeless in the German bombing of Rotterdam, also known as the Rotterdam Blitz. After hardly any buildings were left in the historic centre and most of the canals were filled with rubble from the demolished houses, the city started to reinvent itself.
The city inhabitants filled up the remaining canals with rubble too and built their metropolis on the resulting plain. The phoenix-like rise from the ashes gave way to more creativity and exciting architecture than visible in many other cities in the Netherlands.
However, should you still wonder about what the old historic centre might have looked like, there is one street that has survived the attacks and gives a good impression. It’s in Delfshaven. You can get there by Metro or tram from the central station, and, of course, you can just bike there.
If you like a simple starting point, begin around Aelbrechtskolk and follow the water as it becomes Voorhaven. As you enter Historisch Delfshaven via Albrechtskolk and Voorhaven, you are framed by somewhat Shakespearean looking houses. Seemingly a lot taller and tougher on the canal side than on the street side and the street is still paved with old cobblestones. There are also old bridges left, a windmill and a pilgrim’s church that all go way back. There are small shops and galleries, a few pubs, a brewery, restaurants and cafés.
Entrance view of Albrechtskolk 📷 Anna Soetens
Facts about Delfshaven
Delfshaven began as Delft’s seaport, created in 1389, so Delft could reach the sea without relying on its neighbours. It later became its own municipality and was annexed by Rotterdam in 1886. You can still feel that semi-independent streak in the way the area sits apart from the city centre, like a small town moored to a metropolis. The historic core is compact.
During the 17th century, Delfshaven was a bustling harbour that contributed significantly to Rotterdam’s wealth and status. The shipbuilding yards were renowned, and the area was pivotal in maritime trade routes. A lesser-known fact is that Delfshaven’s economic activities included the export of gin and other spirits, which were in high demand across Europe.
Delfshaven boasts architectural treasures that blend the Dutch Renaissance style with traditional canal-side town houses. Many buildings feature distinctive stepped gables and ornate façades, reflecting the craftsmanship of the time. Some homes and warehouses along Voorhaven and Achterhaven date back to the 17th century, offering visitors a glimpse of how the area looked during its peak.
You can walk it slowly in an hour, or stretch it into an afternoon by ducking into museums, cafés and side streets that still have the scale and texture of an older Netherlands.
Main attractions in Delfshaven
The main attractions in Delfshaven include:
Historic Streets
Delfshaven is one of the few areas in Rotterdam that wasn't bombed during World War II, so it retains its old-style architecture. Walking through its quaint streets, you'll find numerous beautiful houses, many of which now hold little art shops. You can walk it slowly in an hour, or stretch it into an afternoon by ducking into museums, cafés and side streets that still have the scale and texture of an older Netherlands.
Old drawing bridge leading up to Pilgrims church 📷 Anna Soetens
Pilgrim Fathers Church (Pelgrimvaderskerk)
The Pilgrim Fathers Church, also known as the Old Church, is a historic Protestant church located in the Delfshaven district of Rotterdam, Netherlands. Its history dates back to 1417 when it was consecrated as the Roman Catholic Church of St. Anthony. The church underwent significant changes during the Reformation in 1574 and was later associated with the English Dissenters, who became known as the Pilgrim Fathers. These Pilgrims, after living in Leiden for eleven years, set sail from Delfshaven to America in 1620, praying on the quay near the church before their departure. This event led to the church's third name, the Pilgrim Fathers' Church.
The church's architecture features a bell-shaped gable, a result of a major rebuilding in 1761. Inside, the church has a spacious and light interior with white, plastered arches dividing the nave from the aisles. It also houses a richly carved pulpit from the eighteenth century and stained-glass windows representing the six days of Creation. Today, the church is primarily used by the Reformed Church Delfshaven and serves as a venue for concerts, lectures, weddings, and exhibitions.
De Distilleerketel
At the edge of the harbour stands Korenmolen De Distilleerketel, a windmill that looks ancient enough to have ground flour for the Dutch Golden Age. The catch is that the current mill is not an untouched 18th-century survivor. It is a reconstruction completed in 1986 to 1987, built to restore a lost landmark to the skyline. 
Windmill at the end of Delfshaven 📷 Anna Soetens
De Pelgrim Brewery
A few steps away is Stadsbrouwerij De Pelgrim, a long-running brewery and tasting spot that leans into Delfshaven’s atmosphere rather than fighting it. It was founded in 1995 and remains one of the neighbourhood’s best places to settle in for an unhurried beer, especially when the weather pushes people onto terraces by the water.
Dutch Pinball Museum, the most joyful museum in the harbour
If you want something that feels less like heritage and more like play, go to the Dutch Pinball Museum. It moved to Delfshaven in 2020 and sits right on the water at Voorhaven 12. The pitch is simple: a museum where the machines are not just displayed, they are meant to be played, with a large collection spanning decades.
It is also a neat example of what Delfshaven does best: old warehouse setting, contemporary obsession inside.
Dutch Pinball Museum in Delfshaven Rotterdam. Photo credit: Dutch Pinball Museum
Antique Shops, Galleries, and Gin Bars
Delfshaven is home to a variety of antique shops, art galleries, and gin bars that you can explore.
A secret park: De Schat van Schoonderloo
De Schat van Schoonderloo (The Treasure of Schoonderloo) is a charming neighborhood park located in the middle of Schoonderloostraat in Rotterdam. It is open daily until sunset and is managed by local volunteers. Over the years, a group of enthusiastic residents has worked on the realization of De Schat van Schoonderloo, turning it into a gem of a neighborhood park.
De Schat van Schoonderloo is a park maintained by volunteers
The park consists of four gardens: 'by the water', 'near the forest', 'along the street', and 'around the roses'. It was built on the site of the former Petrus Church, which was a sailors' church built in 1928 for the children of the sailors' internment camp in Havenstraat. However, the church was demolished in 1975 and 1976, leaving a large gaping hole known as the “Gap of Schoonderloo”.
In 1997, the municipality wanted to fill the gap with houses, but some residents fought to retain the green designation for the area. In 1999, the Delfshaven District chose to side with the residents and decided to maintain the green designation instead of building houses.
Where to eat and drink
Delfshaven’s strength is not a single headline restaurant, it is the density of small places that make you slow down. A reliable dinner option is ’t Ouwe Bruggetje, a long-standing restaurant on the harbour. Check opening days and times before you go, as schedules can be tight.
Remember to check the opening hours of these attractions before visiting, as some of them have specific visiting times or days.
Detail of Number 33 📷 Anna Soetens
Side street leading behind the church view 📷 Anna Soetens
Take your time
More historic places
If you are looking for more official and historic houses that have survived the war or have been rebuilt, visit the Sint-Laurenskerk in the city centre, the Schielandshuis Museum, the Wereld Museum Rotterdam or Rotterdam’s City Hall (also with an impressive carillon tower).
